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Lying 30 meters beneath the surface of the Red Sea is a time capsule from the height of World War II. The SS Thistlegorm, a British Merchant Navy ship sunk by German bombers in 1941, is widely considered one of the greatest wreck dives on the planet. Unlike many wrecks that are stripped of their contents, the Thistlegorm remains packed with its original cargo: motorcycles, trucks, rifles, and aircraft parts, all waiting in the silent depths.
For many scuba divers, a trip to the Red Sea is incomplete without a pilgrimage to this underwater museum. However, its location in the middle of the Strait of Gubal means it is subject to challenging currents and deep conditions that require preparation and respect.
This guide covers everything you need to know about diving the SS Thistlegorm, from its tragic history and the cargo you will see, to the practicalities of planning your dive and navigating the wreck safely. Whether you are a wreck-head or a marine life enthusiast, the Thistlegorm offers an experience unlike any other.
The SS Thistlegorm was a British Merchant Navy armed freighter built in 1940. Measuring 128 meters (420 feet) long, she was designed to transport essential supplies to British and Allied forces during World War II. In October 1941, she was nearing the end of her voyage from Glasgow to Alexandria, carrying a massive cargo intended for the Western Desert Campaign.
Because the Mediterranean was heavily patrolled by Axis forces, the ship took a long route around Africa, entering the Red Sea via the Cape of Good Hope. While anchored at “Safe Anchorage F” near the entrance of the Gulf of Suez, waiting for the Suez Canal to clear, she was spotted by German Heinkel He-111 bombers based in Crete. On the night of October 6, 1941, two bombs struck her cargo hold No. 4, which contained ammunition. The resulting explosion ripped the stern off and sent the vessel to the bottom of the sea in minutes.
Rediscovery by Jacques Cousteau
The wreck remained hidden until 1955, when legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau discovered it with the help of local fishermen. He retrieved several items, including the captain’s safe and a motorcycle, which are featured in his famous documentary “The Silent World.” However, Cousteau did not reveal the exact coordinates, and the ship was “lost” again for nearly 40 years. It was only in the early 1990s, with the boom of recreational diving in Sharm El Sheikh, that the Thistlegorm was rediscovered and became the global diving icon it is today.
The Thistlegorm lies on a sandy bottom at a maximum depth of 30-32 meters (100-105 feet). The shallowest point of the wreck is the bridge, which sits at around 12-15 meters (40-50 feet).
– Orientation: The ship lies upright on the seabed, though the blast area near the stern created a debris field of twisted metal.
– Visibility: Usually ranges from 15 to 30 meters.
– Currents: This is the most challenging aspect. Currents at Sha’ab Ali can be fierce, often requiring divers to use descent and ascent lines.
– Water Temperature: 22C (72F) in winter to 29C (84F) in late summer.
The primary reason divers flock to the Thistlegorm is its “time capsule” cargo. Unlike many wrecks that were stripped or salvaged, the Thistlegorm remains packed with World War II equipment:
– BSA M20 and Norton 16H Motorcycles: Found in the upper and lower holds, often still lined up in rows.
– Bedford and Ford WOT Trucks: Massive vehicles stacked on top of one another.
– Bren Gun Carriers: Small armored tracked vehicles.
– Rifles: Crates of Lee-Enfield rifles are visible in the holds.
– Aircraft Parts: Two Bristol Blenheim bomber wings and spare parts.
– Locomotives: Two LMS Stanier Class 8F steam locomotives were blown off the deck during the explosion and lie on the seabed on either side of the ship.
– Personal Items: Wellington Boots (wellies) and spare tires are scattered throughout.
Because of the distance from Sharm El Sheikh (about 3-4 hours by boat), most day-trip boats depart very early, often at 4:00 AM or 5:00 AM. Liveaboards are the preferred method for many, as they allow for multiple dives on the wreck, including night dives for the highly experienced.
The first dive is typically an external tour. This allows divers to get their bearings, assess the current, and view the massive scale of the ship. Points of interest include the bow, the massive anchor winch, the anti-aircraft gun on the stern, and the locomotives on the sand. Diving the ss thistlegorm is an unforgettable experience.
The second dive focuses on the holds. Divers enter through the hatches into Hold No. 1 and No. 2. Because the ship is so large, these holds are cavernous and generally safe for those with Advanced Open Water training, provided they have good buoyancy. Navigating through the rows of trucks and motorcycles is a surreal experience that feels like walking through a flooded museum.
While the metal and history are the stars, the Thistlegorm has become a thriving artificial reef.
– Schooling Fish: Massive schools of batfish, barracuda, and jacks often hang in the current above the wreck.
– Resident Giants: Large Malabar groupers are often seen hiding in the engine room or under the hull.
– Macro Life: Nudibranchs and pipefish cling to the rusted railings.
– Predators: It is common to see crocodilefish on the decks and occasional reef sharks cruising the perimeter.
The SS Thistlegorm is not a dive for beginners. To get the most out of it safely, you should meet the following criteria:
– Certification: PADI Advanced Open Water (or equivalent) is the minimum recommended.
– Experience: At least 20-30 logged dives. Experience with currents and deep diving is highly beneficial.
– Equipment: A dive computer is mandatory due to the depth and potential for multi-level diving. Nitrox (32%) is highly recommended to extend your bottom time and reduce fatigue.
– Conservation: The wreck is fragile. Avoid touching the cargo or the structure, as the oil from skin accelerates corrosion, and bubbles trapped in the ceiling can damage the metal.
– From Sharm El Sheikh: The most common departure point. Long day trips often include breakfast and lunch.
– From Hurghada: Some day boats operate from here, but it is a longer and potentially rougher crossing across the Strait of Gubal.
– Red Sea Liveaboards: This is the gold standard. Most “Northern Red Sea” itineraries spend a full day or more at the Thistlegorm, allowing for a night dive when the wreck takes on a haunting, ethereal atmosphere.
Diving is possible year-round, but spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) offer the best balance of comfortable air temperatures and warm water. During the peak summer months, it can be extremely hot on the deck of the boat, while winter months can see choppy seas that make the crossing difficult.
The SS Thistlegorm is a war grave. Hundreds of divers visit every day, which has led to significant wear and tear. To preserve this site for future generations:
– Never take souvenirs.
– Practice perfect buoyancy to avoid kicking up silt or hitting the wreck.
– Follow the “Look but don’t touch” rule strictly.
– Support operators who use permanent moorings rather than dropping anchors, which can smash the wooden decks.
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